“It’s a purity thing. Cement does such a good job of showing a wine’s true terroir. Oak—even neutral oak—can mask those nuances, and stainless steel heightens the effect of acid in high-acid wines. Cement doesn’t do that. It doesn’t add or take away or mask the soil. It lets everything show. I can’t explain exactly how these tanks make the wine so seamless and velvety on the mid-palate. But every time I’ve done a blind tasting with the same wine in oak, stainless, and concrete, the concrete tanks win every time.”

Eric Jensen, Booker Vineyards,